Mountain heritage and sustainable cashmere in Mongolia

25/09/2024

Cashmere – the light, soft and durable fibre that comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats (Capra hircus) – is coveted globally as a luxury fashion and lifestyle item. These goats originate from the Himalayan region of Kashmir, with the word "cashmere" deriving from an anglicization of Kashmir.

A mountainous country, Mongolia is renowned for its production of high-quality cashmere. Cashmere production is deeply intertwined with the traditional nomadic herding culture of Mongolia, where generations of herders have tended to their cashmere goat flocks. These herders possess extensive knowledge about the seasonal grazing patterns, breeding, and fibre-harvesting techniques that are essential to producing the finest cashmere without harming the environment.

However, the rise in cashmere’s popularity and demand by consumers around the world has led to an increase in herd size and unsustainable farming practices. The nomadic herders in Mongolia who historically raised cashmere goats sustainably are struggling to compete with lower prices . Faced with rising economic hardship, herders are being forced to give up their nomadic lifestyle and migrate to the cities, where job prospects are limited. Given the choice, many of these ‘stewards of the rangelands’ would prefer to live in their pastures and continue the herding tradition, living close to nature and their animals.

At the same time, discerning consumers are becoming more aware of the impact that overproduction is having on communities, climate change and the environment. Their growing concern combined with greater industry regulation means that brands and retailers are under pressure to demonstrate responsible sourcing in their supply chains. 

Celebrating Mongolia's mountain cultural heritage

The Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA), a Mountain Partnership member, is a non-profit organization that works with herders, buyers and experts in the fashion industry. The two founders of the SFA, Batkhishig Baival and Una Jones, grew up in the Mongolian countryside and saw first-hand how climate change and overgrazing were impacting the land. Riverbeds were drying up, grasslands were turning to desert, and the families that once thrived there faced a growing struggle. The SFA grew from their desire for a lasting, market-based solution that can expand and protect Mongolia’s rich rangelands and pastoral culture for future generations.

SFA’s mission is to ensure the long-term viability of the cashmere sector, with a focus on protecting natural resources, safeguarding livelihoods, and promoting high animal welfare standards. The SFA is currently working across 7 regions in China and 17 provinces in Mongolia.

The SFA offers a globally-recognized standard for cashmere production that addresses the key sustainability and animal welfare issues related to cashmere production and provides assurance for responsibly-produced cashmere. The five principles of the standard are effective management, decent work, biodiversity and land use, animal welfare, and fibre quality improvement.

SFA teams up with the Mountain Partnership Secretariat

In 2023, SFA Mongolia teamed up with the Mountain Partnership Secretariat at the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) as part of the Business Incubator and Accelerator for Mountains and Islands (BIA) programme.

Through the BIA, six herder organizations from Mongolia were selected to receive grants and technical assistance. Three of the selected organizations in the mountainous provinces of Gobi-Altai, Bayan-Ulgii and Tuv also participated in trainings on animal welfare and cashmere combing and sorting organized and co-funded by SFA.

With the help of these trainings and grant support, the herders have adopted new techniques, such as sorting cashmere by colour at at the household level, combing animals with care, and storing the cashmere in appropriate bags to maintain quality.

The organizations have expanded their market access through a newly established commercial partnership with the SFA. This collaboration has sparked widespread interest, with many organizations expressing their intent to engage in SFA programmes and taking the step to register as member herder organizations.

“By supporting the commercialization and certification of mountain products, especially in the fashion industry, we can ensure that traditional practices are preserved and respected but also elevated to meet modern sustainability standards,” said Giorgio Grussu, BIA Project Coordinator. “This approach not only empowers mountain communities economically but also reinforces the global commitment to responsible and ethical sourcing in fashion.”

Una Jones, CEO of SFA, highlighted the importance of collaboration in these efforts: “Collaboration is key to achieving positive change. By working with like-minded organizations, we can better support the environment, livestock and herding communities. As a Mountain Partnership member, this project has provided training to pastoralists in Mongolia, promoting sustainable and responsible cashmere production. Training helps them improve fibre quality, secure premium prices, and uphold cashmere’s reputation as a luxury product.”

The efforts of the SFA and together with partners like the Mountain Partnership Secretariat highlight the potential for a harmonious balance between tradition and modernity in the cashmere industry. By supporting sustainable practices, enhancing market access, and preserving the cultural heritage of herders, these initiatives are not only safeguarding the environment but also ensuring that future generations can continue to thrive in their ancestral lands.